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Shirofugen Cherry Prunus Shirofugen
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
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British Grown – The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more
Product Description
PRUNUS SHIROFUGEN – Shirofugen Cherry
Characteristics
This is one of the last of the Japanese Cherries to flower, not blooming until late May or early June. It brings to an end the cherry blossom season that starts in early April with Accolade. The flowers are large and white though they turn purple-red before they scatter.
It is a small tree with a maximum height and spread of 8m (25ft) with a wide, vase-shape. Later the branches hang over strongly and become as wide as high.
Where to grow
Ornamental cherries grow best in full sun on moist fertile deep loamy soils. They will therefore grow well in most garden or parkland positions. Poor soils should have organic matter added to the backfill during planting. They do not like waterlogged or permanently wet ground. Do not be tempted to plant a cherry in the same spot from which another cherrry has been removed as replant disease will in all probability prevent good growth.
Did you know?
This is a very old cultivar of the Japanese Cherry. It is also known as Fugenzo and has being cultivated in Japan since the 16th century. Fugenzo means ‘Elephant of Fugen’ and refers to the white elephant which represents the Buddhist saint Fugen. It was introduced in Europe around 1916 by the British plant collector Ernest ‘Chinese’ Wilson.
Features
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Mature Height
- Small - 5-10 metres
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Spread
- 5-10 metres
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Shape / Habit
- Spreading
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Growth Rate
- Medium
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Soil Type
- All soil types
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Sun Levels
- Full sun
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Difficulty / Hard to Grow
- Medium
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Evergreen / Deciduous
- Deciduous
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Autumn Colour
- Orange
- Red
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Leaf Colour
- Green
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Flower Colour
- White
- Pink
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Flowering Type
- Double
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Flowering Month
- May
- June
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Uses
- Parkland Tree
- Garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
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Scent
- Scented Flowers
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Season
- Autumn
- Spring
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.
- Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
- Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
- Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?
Yes the delivery costs stay the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.